How to Care for Houseplants in Winter

Watering less — and meaning it

The single most common winter mistake is continuing to water on the same schedule you used in summer. In winter, most houseplants enter a period of slower growth or dormancy. They're using less water, the soil dries out more slowly (especially in cooler rooms), and their roots are less active. Overwatering during this period is one of the fastest routes to root rot.

The rule of thumb — check the soil rather than the calendar — becomes even more important now. For most tropical houseplants, let the top inch or two dry out completely before watering. For drought-tolerant plants like snake plants, ZZ plants, pothos, and succulents, you can wait until the top half of the pot is dry. That might mean watering every two to three weeks instead of every seven to ten days.

Water temperature matters more in winter too. Cold tap water can shock tropical roots. Let water sit at room temperature for an hour before using it, or mix in a little warm water to take the chill off. And because heating systems can concentrate mineral salts in the soil over time, you may want to flush your pots with a thorough soaking once mid-season to clear any buildup.

Signs you're still overwatering: yellowing lower leaves, mushy stems at the base, or soil that feels wet days after you last watered. Signs you've swung too far the other way: bone-dry soil that's pulling away from the pot edges, crispy leaf tips, or drooping that doesn't bounce back after a drink.

Light is your most limited resource right now

In most of the continental US, winter sunlight is significantly weaker and arrives at a lower angle than summer sun. A spot that got bright indirect light in July might barely qualify as medium light in January. South-facing windows become your most valuable real estate; east- and west-facing windows hold their own reasonably well; north-facing windows may struggle to support anything but the most shade-tolerant plants.

Move light-hungry plants closer to windows — but watch for cold glass. On very cold nights, the air within a few inches of a single-pane window can drop dramatically, which can damage tropical leaves. A general rule: if the glass feels cold to the touch, keep foliage at least six inches away.

If your home feels genuinely dark from November through February, a grow light can be a practical solution rather than a last resort. Even a modest full-spectrum LED positioned eighteen to twenty-four inches above a plant for twelve to fourteen hours a day can meaningfully supplement low winter light. This is especially useful for plants like fiddle-leaf figs, birds of paradise, and crotons that need consistent brightness to stay healthy.

You may also notice that some plants slow or stop producing new leaves entirely in winter. For most species, that's perfectly normal — it's not a sign something is wrong, it's the plant conserving energy. Resist the urge to fertilize heavily to force growth; that can do more harm than good when roots aren't actively absorbing nutrients.

Fighting dry indoor air

Central heating is brutal for tropical houseplants. While it keeps you comfortable, it can push indoor relative humidity down to 20–30% — far below the 50–60% that most tropical species prefer. The symptoms show up as brown, crispy leaf tips and edges, curling leaves, and accelerated soil drying.

There are a few realistic ways to raise humidity around your plants. Grouping plants together is one of the simplest: as each plant transpires, it contributes moisture to the air immediately around the group, creating a slightly more humid microclimate. A pebble tray filled with water placed beneath (not touching) the pot can add a small amount of localized humidity as the water slowly evaporates.

For plants that genuinely need higher humidity — calatheas, maidenhair ferns, nerve plants, and Boston ferns, for example — a small humidifier near the plant cluster is the most reliable option. Misting is often suggested but provides only a very brief humidity boost and can promote fungal issues on certain species if leaves stay wet.

Also be alert to cold drafts and heating vents, both of which stress plants. A plant sitting in the path of a heating vent may look like it's getting warm air, but it's actually being blasted with hot, desiccating airflow that can dehydrate leaves faster than the roots can compensate. If you notice a plant near a radiator or floor vent declining despite regular watering, the vent is likely the culprit.

Pause fertilizing (mostly)

The general guidance for fertilizing houseplants in winter is simple: stop, or dramatically reduce frequency. When plants aren't actively growing, they can't use the nutrients you're offering. Fertilizer salts accumulate in the soil, and without active root uptake to process them, they can build up to levels that burn roots — a condition called fertilizer burn or salt toxicity.

Most houseplants do well with no fertilizer at all from roughly November through February. When growth picks back up in late winter or early spring — watch for new leaves unfurling as your cue — you can resume with a diluted, balanced liquid fertilizer at half the recommended dose to ease back in.

There are a few exceptions. Winter-flowering plants like Christmas cacti, phalaenopsis orchids, and anthuriums that are actively blooming can benefit from a low-nitrogen fertilizer formulated for flowering. But even then, a light application is better than a heavy one.

If you suspect salt buildup from previous heavy feeding, now is actually a reasonable time to flush the soil: water thoroughly until it runs freely from the drainage holes, let it drain, then water again. This helps push excess salts out before roots can suffer further damage.

Plants that need extra attention in winter — and ones that don't

Not all houseplants respond to winter the same way. Knowing which ones are more sensitive can help you prioritize your attention.

Plants that need extra care in winter: Calatheas and prayer plants are highly sensitive to both dry air and cold temperatures — keep them away from windows and vents. Fiddle-leaf figs dislike temperature fluctuations and will drop leaves if moved or chilled. Bird of paradise and areca palms need as much light as you can give them; their growth simply stops if light drops too low. Maidenhair ferns are unforgiving about low humidity.

Plants that handle winter well with minimal adjustment: Snake plants, ZZ plants, cast-iron plants, pothos, heartleaf philodendrons, and Chinese evergreens are all remarkably tolerant of lower light and less frequent watering. Spider plants and inch plants are similarly forgiving. Succulents and cacti like aloe, haworthia, echeveria, and jade plants actually prefer a cool, drier winter rest — just cut watering back significantly and give them whatever sun you have.

For all plants, winter is a good time to clean leaves. Dust accumulates on foliage over time and can reduce how efficiently leaves photosynthesize — a particular problem when winter light is already limited. A damp cloth wiped gently across each leaf costs only a few minutes and genuinely helps.

Finally, winter is a reasonable time to inspect your plants closely for pests. Spider mites, mealybugs, and scale insects tend to thrive in warm, dry indoor conditions, and the stress of winter can make plants more vulnerable. Catching an infestation early — before it spreads to neighboring plants — makes treatment far easier.