Plant care guide

Monstera Adansonii

Monstera adansonii · also called Swiss cheese vine, five holes plant, monkey mask

Monstera adansonii is an easy, fast-growing vine with leaves full of holes. Give it bright indirect light and water when the top inch dries.

LightBright indirect
WaterEvery 1 week
DifficultyEasy
Pet safeNo
Mature sizeVines 3-8 ft indoors
GrowthFast

Monstera adansonii, the Swiss cheese vine, is a fast-growing tropical aroid native to forests across Central and South America. Its thin, oval leaves are riddled with oval holes, called fenestrations, that develop as the leaves mature, giving it a lacy, distinctive look. Smaller-leaved and more vining than its cousin Monstera deliciosa, it climbs trees in the wild using aerial roots.

Indoors it is grown as a beginner-friendly trailing or climbing plant that fills out quickly with good light and warmth. Trained up a moss pole it produces larger, more dramatically fenestrated leaves, while left to trail it forms lush cascades. It is forgiving and vigorous, with success coming down to bright indirect light, consistent watering, and a chunky, well-draining mix.

How to care for Monstera Adansonii

Light

Bright indirect light produces full vines and well-developed holes. Place it near an east window or a few feet from a south or west window. Low light slows growth and reduces fenestration; direct sun scorches the thin leaves.

Watering

Water when the top inch of soil is dry, roughly weekly in active growth. Drench until water drains, then empty the saucer, and let the surface dry before watering again. Reduce frequency in winter to avoid soggy roots.

Humidity

Average home humidity works, but it grows lusher at 60 percent or higher. A humidifier or pebble tray encourages bigger leaves with more holes. Dry air can cause crispy edges.

Temperature

Keep it between 65 and 85F. Protect it from drafts and temperatures below 55F, which stall growth and cause damage. Steady warmth supports its fast growth.

Soil & potting mix

Use a chunky, well-draining aroid mix of potting soil, orchid bark, and perlite. This holds moisture without staying waterlogged and gives roots air. A pot with drainage holes is essential.

Feeding

Feed monthly in spring and summer with a balanced houseplant fertilizer at half strength. Pause in fall and winter. Flush the soil occasionally to prevent fertilizer salt buildup and brown tips.

Pruning & grooming

Trim leggy or bare vines just above a node to encourage branching, and pinch tips to keep it bushy. Train it on a moss pole for larger, more fenestrated leaves. Remove any yellowed leaves.

Repotting

Repot every 1 to 2 years when roots fill the pot or grow from drainage holes, sizing up one pot. Spring is ideal. Refresh the chunky mix to maintain drainage.

Propagation

Root stem cuttings with at least one node in water or moist mix; they root readily in a few weeks. Provide warmth and bright indirect light. Multiple cuttings potted together fill out faster.

Common Monstera Adansonii problems

  • Leaves without holes. New leaves lacking fenestration usually need more light, or the plant is still juvenile. Give it brighter indirect light and a moss pole to climb, which encourages larger, more fenestrated mature leaves.
  • Yellowing leaves. Yellow leaves commonly signal overwatering or poor drainage. Let the top inch dry between waterings and confirm the pot and mix drain freely.
  • Leggy, sparse vines. Long stems with widely spaced leaves indicate too little light. Move it brighter and prune leggy vines above a node to encourage fuller, bushier growth.
Toxicity: Toxic to cats and dogs. Calcium oxalate crystals cause mouth irritation, drooling, and vomiting if chewed.

Monstera Adansonii FAQ

Why doesn't my monstera adansonii have holes?

Young plants and those in lower light produce solid or barely fenestrated leaves. The holes develop as leaves mature and with sufficient bright indirect light. Giving it more light and a moss pole to climb encourages larger, more dramatically holey leaves over time.

Should I let it trail or climb?

Both work, but climbing produces a more impressive plant. When trained up a moss pole, monstera adansonii puts out bigger leaves with more pronounced fenestration, mimicking how it climbs trees in the wild. Left to trail, it stays attractive but with smaller, less holey leaves.

How is it different from a regular monstera?

Monstera adansonii has smaller, thinner leaves with fully enclosed oval holes, and it is more of a vining trailer. Monstera deliciosa is much larger, with leaves that split all the way to the edges, and it grows into a big floor plant. Their care is nearly identical.