Aerial Roots on Houseplants: What They Are and What to Do With Them

Which houseplants grow aerial roots?

Aerial roots are most common in plants that are epiphytes (naturally growing on other plants) or hemi-epiphytes (starting life on the ground before climbing up trees). In a typical home, you're most likely to spot them on the following plants:

**Monsteras (Monstera deliciosa, Monstera adansonii):** These are perhaps the most well-known aerial root producers. Thick, brown-green roots emerge from nodes along the stem. In the wild, they help the plant haul itself up tall trees toward brighter light.

**Pothos (Golden pothos, Satin pothos):** Small, stubby, cream-colored root nubs appear at nodes, especially along vining stems. They're the same roots you encourage when propagating in water.

**Philodendrons (Heartleaf philodendron, Philodendron Brasil, Philodendron Birkin):** Climbers in this genus produce thin aerial roots that happily grip a moss pole or bark support.

**Hoyas (Hoya carnosa):** Hoyas send out small roots along their stems, which in nature anchor them to bark. Indoors they may appear between leaf nodes on a trailing stem.

**Orchids (Phalaenopsis orchid):** Orchid aerial roots are silvery-gray when dry and vivid green when recently watered. These roots are vital — they photosynthesize and absorb moisture directly from the air and their growing medium.

**Arrowhead plant and Anthurium:** Both produce visible roots at lower stem nodes, particularly as the plant matures or grows in a humid spot.

**English ivy:** Produces short, clinging roots along stems that in the wild allow it to scale walls and trees.

**Staghorn fern:** The basal fronds themselves act as modified structures that trap moisture and anchor the plant; true aerial roots radiate outward from the growing point.

**Alocasia:** As the rhizome matures, stubby roots can emerge above the soil or from offset pups at the base.

Plants that do *not* typically grow aerial roots include snake plants, ZZ plants, peace lilies, spider plants, aloe vera, succulents like echeveria and haworthia, and most cacti. If you see unusual root-like growth on these plants, it's worth investigating further — it could be an offset, a new offset pup, or in rarer cases a sign of stem rot pushing roots upward.

What aerial roots are actually doing

Understanding the function of aerial roots helps you make smarter decisions about managing them.

**Anchoring and climbing:** For hemi-epiphytes like monsteras and philodendrons, aerial roots are the plant's natural grappling hooks. They reach toward rough surfaces — tree bark, moss poles, walls — and grip on, allowing the plant to climb toward brighter light. Indoors, if your monstera's aerial roots are long and searching, it's often a sign the plant wants something to grab onto.

**Moisture and nutrient absorption:** Many aerial roots can absorb water directly from humid air or from rainfall trickling down a trunk. Orchid roots are especially capable of this — the white-gray velamen layer on phalaenopsis roots is designed to soak up ambient moisture and protect the root between watering events.

**Gas exchange:** Aerial roots breathe. In waterlogged or compacted soil, some plants push roots upward to access oxygen — this is seen more dramatically in mangroves but is relevant to understanding why a chronically overwatered pothos might show unusual root growth near the soil surface.

**Water storage:** In some succulent-adjacent species and hoyas, aerial roots can act as small reserves, though this is a minor secondary function compared to anchoring and absorption.

**What they signal about your plant's environment:** Unusually prolific aerial root production — a monstera suddenly sending out many long, searching roots — often indicates the plant is in active, healthy growth and has adequate light and warmth. It can also mean the plant is reaching for more humidity or a surface to climb. Conversely, aerial roots that are shriveled, brown, or dry on an orchid are a sign that humidity is low or the plant needs water.

Should you trim aerial roots?

This is the question most people actually want answered, and the honest answer is: it depends on the plant and your goals.

**Monsteras and philodendrons:** You can trim aerial roots if they are very long and untidy, and the plant will not be harmed. Use clean, sharp scissors or pruners and cut close to the node. That said, if the roots are long enough to reach soil or a moss pole, there's genuine value in letting them stay — they will supplement the root system in the pot and help a climbing plant feel more anchored. Trimming repeatedly can slow the plant's climbing momentum but won't damage its health.

**Pothos:** Trimming the small root nubs on a trailing pothos is safe and purely aesthetic. If you're propagating, those nodes with roots are your most valuable cuttings.

**Hoyas:** The small roots along hoya stems can be left alone. They rarely become obtrusive, and trimming them frequently can stress the slow-growing stems. If a hoya is growing in a hanging basket and the roots are trailing, you can trim them without harm.

**Orchids:** Do not trim healthy orchid aerial roots. This is one of the most common mistakes orchid owners make. Those silvery-green roots absorb moisture and light, and cutting them stresses the plant. If an orchid root is clearly dead — shriveled, hollow, brown all the way through — you can remove it with sterilized scissors. But when in doubt, leave it. Orchid roots that wander outside the pot are doing exactly what they evolved to do.

**English ivy and arrowhead plant:** Trimming aerial roots on these is fine and has no meaningful effect on the plant's health.

One consistent rule: always use clean, sterilized cutting tools to avoid introducing bacteria or fungi to the open wound. Wipe blades with isopropyl alcohol before cutting.

Tucking aerial roots into soil: does it help?

For many climbing aroids — monsteras, philodendrons, pothos — guiding long aerial roots into the potting mix is genuinely beneficial. Once in soil, aerial roots begin functioning like regular roots, taking up water and nutrients. This can noticeably improve the plant's vigor, especially for large specimens that are pushing the limits of their pot's root system.

To tuck a root into soil, gently bend it toward the pot and press the tip into the mix. Don't force a stiff root — if it resists bending, let it grow a little longer until it's more pliable, or simply leave it. Snapping a root while forcing it defeats the purpose. You can bury just the tip or guide several inches of root below the surface; the plant will do the rest.

For monstera owners who want a tidier look while still benefiting from those roots, a common approach is to direct aerial roots into an adjacent pot of moist sphagnum moss or directly into the main pot through a hole in the side of a moss pole. This keeps the plant fed while managing the visual.

Do not try to tuck orchid aerial roots into soil or bark. Phalaenopsis orchids are epiphytes; their roots need air circulation and should not be buried. Covering them restricts the oxygen they need and invites rot. It's fine if some roots naturally grow down into the bark medium, but if a root is clearly growing outward and upward, let it.

For plants like hoyas and ivies, tucking aerial roots into soil is possible but doesn't provide the same dramatic benefit as it does for large-leafed aroids. The roots are small and the plants generally manage fine either way.

Supporting climbing plants with aerial roots

If your plant is producing many searching aerial roots, that's often a sign it wants something to climb. Providing a support structure gives those roots a purpose and usually results in larger leaves, more mature fenestration in monsteras, and a healthier overall plant.

**Moss poles** are one of the best supports for aerial-rooting climbers. The moist sphagnum moss allows aerial roots to penetrate and anchor, mimicking the texture of a tree trunk. Keep the moss pole damp by misting it regularly or watering it from the top, and the plant's aerial roots will naturally grow into it. For a step-by-step guide to building your own, see the guide on creating a moss pole for climbing houseplants.

**Coir fiber poles** are a drier alternative to moss poles. They provide physical support and some aerial root attachment, though the roots won't penetrate as deeply as they do with damp moss.

**Wooden planks or cork bark slabs** can be mounted on a wall and the plant trained against them. Cork bark is particularly attractive and natural-feeling for hoyas and smaller philodendrons.

**Bamboo stakes** provide structural support but don't offer the same root-anchoring benefits as moss or bark, since the smooth surface gives roots little to grip. They're better suited for training direction than for true aerial root integration.

Securing the plant to its support as it grows with soft plant ties or strips of stretchy fabric encourages the aerial roots to make contact with the support surface. Once the roots have anchored themselves, the plant becomes largely self-supporting.

When aerial roots signal a problem

Most of the time, aerial roots are healthy and normal. But in a few situations, root behavior above the soil line can point to something worth addressing.

**Roots appearing at the soil surface or climbing up over the pot rim:** This usually means the plant is root-bound — the soil is so full of roots that new growth has nowhere to go but up. Check whether the root ball is tightly packed or roots are emerging from drainage holes. If so, it's likely time to repot into a pot one size larger.

**Shriveled, wrinkled aerial roots on orchids:** This indicates low humidity or underwatering. The velamen layer on phalaenopsis roots should be firm and plump when the plant is well-hydrated. Dry, flat, or papery roots mean the roots aren't getting enough moisture. Increase watering frequency slightly and consider raising humidity around the plant.

**Soft, mushy, dark aerial roots:** On any plant, mushy roots — aerial or otherwise — can indicate bacterial rot, often brought on by overwatering, very high humidity with poor air circulation, or damage. Remove affected roots with sterilized tools, improve air circulation, and assess your watering habits.

**Aerial roots that are pale and sparse on a climbing aroid:** If your monstera or philodendron has almost no aerial root development despite being a mature plant, it may be getting too little light or warmth. Aerial root production tends to increase during active growth in well-lit, warm conditions and slows considerably in low light or cool temperatures.

**Root-like growths on plants that shouldn't have aerial roots:** If you see something that looks like an aerial root on a snake plant, peace lily, or ZZ plant, look more carefully. It may be an offset or pup at the base, a bulb starting to form, or — if the growth is slimy or discolored — a sign of rot. These plants don't produce true aerial roots, so any unusual above-soil root growth deserves a closer look.